Keep it Luquillo – Wednesday Wandering


Whenever snow is predicted, I scroll to my photo album “Warmer Places.” Increasingly I turn to my photos from Puerto Rico. With five inches of snow predicted to fall in Chicago, let’s jet for Luquillo beach, just outside of Fajardo.

Every article we read advised to get to the ferry office a few hours before it opened to guarantee a spot on the boat to Culebra, considered one of the most beautiful islands in the world. Our hotel echoed the advice. Despite all those warnings, I couldn’t fathom we would have to give more lead time for a boat than for our flight to Puerto Rico.

Leann and I looked at the ferry schedule, discussed what time we should wake up to arrive at the ticket office. The boats leave every two hours, which throttles how many people can enjoy them at a time. The ticket office opened at 7AM and I thought an hour would be plenty of time. For the record, Leann suggested we go earlier. We got directions from the hotel staff and opted to walk instead of driving the half mile. Continue reading Keep it Luquillo – Wednesday Wandering

Best Sandwiches in the World


In honor of National Sandwich Day, here are some of my favorite sandwiches from my travels around the globe. The best of the best span from funky burgers in Chicago to ham and cheese mallorcas in Puerto Rico to the untouchable bread of Paris.

Share a picture of your favorite sandwich in the comments.


A Year of Adventures and Doing Stuff

Rodin on traveling abroad.

December 31, and the week leading up to it, has always been of interest to me. The culmination of a calendar year causes me, and seemingly every other blogger, to reflect on the past year’s events, what happened, what didn’t, where’d they go, what did they cook/eat, who did they date. The arbitrary nature of time demarcators has led me to question the significance of today versus yesterday or any other day. As a society (and world) we mark today as the end of the year and tomorrow the day to join a gym, just as soon as the room stops spinning and we find our pants.

In stark opposition to the mindfulness movement, I have largely been focused on the parts bookending “now.” Where am I today versus a year ago? Where will I be a year from now? In my 29 years I can safely assert that I am not clairvoyant, nor a historian. I often struggle with remembering where I parked my car or what I just ate. I have a vague notion of where I will be tomorrow and maybe a week from now, but beyond that…

The basis for mindfulness is that you can’t change the past, nor predict the future, so why worry about either? If you have any friends who post those inspirational quotes or read any profiles on a dating site this year, I’m sure you’ve read some variation on that axiom, likely attributed to Buddha.

While I try to become more “now,” I did want to enumerate what happened in 2014, mostly so I have some reference point when I fry my brain from rapidly vacillating between gadgets and apps.


Oh, the places you’ll go…

Where didn’t I go this year? I have dreamed about going to Europe for many a New Year’s reflection day. This year finally was the year. After dating Leann for about two months, I shared that I wanted to spend my birthday somewhere other than Chicago. She asked where and I said Italy and Paris. She followed up with inquiring if I was going solo or with friends. Leann shared that if no one else would go, she would be interested.

“How committed are you? If you had to give a percentage…”

“75-80,” Leann answered.

A few weeks later I asked “Are you sure?” no less than five times. And after that our first trip was booked. My quest for a passport stamp would be realized. Oddly, I don’t think I’ve looked at those stamps since the adventure. Even more peculiar was that someone was willing to go overseas with me for a prolonged period of time.

Stops along the way: Rome, Florence, Venice, Paris, Fajardo, Old San Juan.

Each inspiring and beautiful in their own way. Florence was one of the most breathtaking places I have been, possibly due to the steeply sloped hills. Traveling was one of the main themes for my writing this year. While it certainly can be expensive, seeing other cities and cultures opens the mind. Plus, I don’t think many people want to read about my daily commute. Traveling is my escape to newness. Experiencing a city for the first time is magical. There is no feeling like my first time in Paris. Walking around Paris that premiere nuit. Wandering in the damp and chilly early evening. Emerging from the Metro and seeing I.M. Pei’s Louvre Pyramid. Turning to Leann with mouth agape. Then walking some more. Wandering. Then, our feet hit the damp pavement a little faster. There it was. Illuminated in all its glory.

Le Tour Eiffel.

Le Tour

I have never experienced anything like that day. That’s the magic of travel.

I hope to return to some of these places in the future, but I’m not focusing on the future. MINDFULNESS!


More than traveling this year, there was a larger theme. Adventures with Leann. By some luck I happened to find someone who is eager to try new things, a patient listener (we all know my stories are seldom succinct) and someone who says yes. She gives unconditionally. She has unknowingly reminded me of the innocence of young love. Those times before becoming jaded or disenchanted with the dating “process.” There is little doubt that I am crazy. Somehow that doesn’t bother her. What started as a conversation about ice cream while sipping margaritas has developed into a year full of happy times getting to know her, her family and her friends. What adventures will we get into in 2015? Follow #lookatusdoingstuff to find out.


This was the year I became a professional chef. Thanks to Chicago Food Bloggers and, I hosted my first dinner party at a swanky rooftop in Chicago’s South Loop. This was also the year of bacon. Leann and I entered a cooking competition through The Takedowns. To supply us for the showdown, they gave us with bacon. Lots of it. Enough to clog all your arteries. And those of your friends.

Also thanks to Yelp and Chicago Food Bloggers, I got to eat some delectable dishes that inspired my cooking. I had the chance to meet restaurant owners and some other bloggers in the process.


IMG_2217 IMG_2222

2014 was also the year I became a professional dancer. No, not that kind. Thanks to Nicolle Wood, I got a bit closer to learning that devil dance known as balboa. The first few weeks were rough because I had basic knowledge of the basic step. Through her patience and generosity with her time, I was able to learn hangman, crabs, scoots and the routine in time for our performance outside Harold Washington Library. Hoping to take on lindyhop in 2015.


Another year at the same place, but there were lots of shuffles. The company was acquired by another company and the office moved from the ‘burbs to downtown. That has necessitated several shifts in commuting and lifestyle. The company continues to grow and my team is growing exponentially. I have had the opportunity to recruit and hire some very talented people.

So now, it’s off to another party. Some close friends are gathering for homemade pizza and reflecting on the year that has been full of -ING verbs. Thanks for following this year and I hope to share more great adventures from around the world in 2015!

Mofongo Tasting in Puerto Rico | Food Traveler’s Guide


Mofongo is like the non-existent snowflake in the Caribbean, with no two being alike.

Every guide book and article on Puerto Rican cuisine raved about the mofongo as a must-try dish. And you definitely should try it. Prior to having it presented in front of me in Loquillo, I had little conception of what it was or how it would taste. Travel books describe it as mashed plantains combined with a meat. With each restaurant presenting a different variation, it’s tough to generalize the dish. The prices were mostly $12-20 for mofongo. Some places we saw charged more. The cost also depends on the meat you select.

Here’s my run down on what you can expect from mofongo.

#4 – La Parrilla

mofongo, puerto rico

  • Luquillo Beach
    Kiosk 2
    Luquillo, Puerto Rico 00773
  • (787) 889-0590

This was our first foray into the world of mofongo. After some misadventures earlier in the trip with restaurants that no longer exist, we found our way to La Parilla after a day at Loquillo beach. There is a string of kiosks offering souvenirs and food. La Parilla, which means the grill, had high reviews and looked to have decent prices. The service was like the weather, warm and inviting. The chicken mofongo wasn’t what we had expected, not bad, just not what our mouths were anticipating. At La Parilla, their interpretation on the staple dish is more like a pork chop suey or Chinese chicken with peppers. It was still tasty, but not the garlic-filled wonderment we had hoped for. The portion was plenty for two people if you get a few appetizers. The plantains tasted more like mashed potatoes or yucca than plantains. We went during the week, so we lucked out to have both the beach and restaurant to ourselves. Their appetizers were OK. Nothing stellar.

Overall, this was our least favorite mofongo. If you’re in the vicinity after a day at the beach, I’d suggest going there. Otherwise, La Parilla is not worth the trip east for their Asian-inspired mofongo.

#3 – Genesis Restaurante

327 Calle Recinto
Old San Juan
453mofongo, san juan, puerto rico

We ended up here on our hunt for Lechon, the other dish touted by all the guide books. Lechon is a roast suckling pig. I didn’t see it on any menus or featured in any dishes. I suspect this may be a local thing more so than tourist sampler. We asked our hotel if they knew where we could get some on our last night and they suggested another spot up the street. When we got to that restaurant, we checked the menu and asked the hostess. She advised us to go to Hennessy’s. Walking east on Recinto Sur while searching for Hennessy’s on my phone proved futile. It turned out the restaurant is called Genesis. Genesis is definitely more of a local spot than the other tourist-leaning locales. Think of your favorite tacqueria vibe. They have two TVs; one had an NBA game and the other Telemundo. The waitress was friendly and spoke english well. I normally use group think to help influence where I dine.

If it’s packed, you probably won’t yack.

There was a table of about 6-8 younger folks in a celebratory mood. A few other tables were occupied with families. The restaurant was more empty than full, but it smelled good. The food took a while to come to our table, but the waitress kept us updated on how much longer it would be. While we were hungry, I would rather food is made fresh instead of fast.

We ordered two pig dishes: smoked pork chops and then asked if we could get mofongo with pork. At first look, the mofongo looked light on pork chunks, but after some forking into it, we discovered more in the plantain mash. Their rustic mash tasted the most pure or authentic versus all the others. The missing factor was a sauce. The mofongo was surrounded by iceberg lettuce and two tomato slices. If there were a gravy, this would have been in the running for the crown.

#2 – Fefo’s

Calle Tanca 203
Old San Juan


I’ll admit, the photo doesn’t look the best. The green hue and ambiguous milky sauce don’t speak to the flavor of this mofongo. We had wandered around looking for a good spot and saw a lot of closed places. Insider tip: most of the restaurants are toward the south and east of Old San Juan. Fefo’s had a sign for happy hour. Leann and I love a good bargain AND we were hungry, so we sat down near the window looking out on Tanca. This had more of an upscale dive feel, if that is a thing. The happy hour drink special runs all day and is for 5-6 different drinks. We got two margaritas. Mine was with bitter passion fruit and Leann’s a sweeter local fruit.

The sauce made this #2. It was liquid garlic, but soft. The chicken was moist and tender. It looked and tasted like it had been poached in broth. The smashed plantains were tasty and chunky. We closed Fefo’s down before our nightly stroll through the streets.

#1 – La Estacion

  • Carretera 987 Kilometro 4
    Fajardo, Puerto Rico 00738
  • (787) 863-4481


Remember my adage about following the line? This was the first restaurant we tried to go to in Fajardo. Navigating Fajardo at night definitely requires GPS. La Estacion is off a two-lane road 987. There will likely be tons of cars outside and you’ll hear the din of a hopping restaurant. They were full to the red snapper gills our first night, so we ended up severely settling for Wendy’s. At a day of flying and driving, you don’t really care where you eat, just that you do.


Not to be deterred, we asked our hotel to make us a reservation after our Bio luminescence kayak adventure. What we failed to realize was we would be soaking wet, so we opted not to smell like mangroves while eating dinner. After a shower and dry clothes, we hit the road for La Estacion (the station). Their parking area wasn’t as full as our first night, but still lots of people. The restaurant was reminiscent of some of Chicago’s hot spots with a cocktail list and kitschy-tiki bar decor.


We ordered some apps and skirt steak mofongo. The server asked me how we wanted it cooked. I said medium rare and he responded with “medium.” We did this dance once more before he explained that getting skirt steak medium rare would be very chewy. I hadn’t intended on a verbal dance with the waiter, but after sipping our cocktails and munching small apps our mofongo with skirt steak arrived and my irritation passed. Maybe it was working up a huge appetite kayaking, or the steak or the cocktails, or maybe their mofongo was just that good. This was also the day we had our first mofongo near Loquillo. The steak was well-seasoned and the mofongo came in a wooden cup that looked like a molcajete. The cup was deceptively deep. Their plantains and yucca combo also had minced garlic. The steak created the sauce and the plantain mash was moist versus the others we had that were somewhat dry.

This was one of those dishes where as soon as it hits your tongue you look at your dinner partner and say “dios mio.”

The Impenetrable Fortress of San Juan


San Juan appears to have called it a night. We expected non-stop salsa around every Christmas-lit corner, especially tonight. Instead we found a few bars blasting club music and one street that was swarming with minors.

Today included a fascinating tour with a park ranger at Castillo San Cristobal, one of three forts in San Juan. The tour included access to tunnels otherwise closed to the public. Our ranger explained the labor efforts to construct the daunting fort and how it was nearly impossible to approach as an opposing fleet. The fort was challenged once by the Brits. After two weeks they gave up and retreated. That was the only test of the fort. The tunnels were interesting to explore and a phobia check. I highly recommend taking the tour and seeing the forts.

The rest of the day was occupied by walking around and sampling food and coffee. For lunch we had Mallorca sandwiches, which are dusted in powdered sugar. Think of it as the love child between a beignet and a grilled cheese.

We grabbed iced coffee at cafe cuatro and walked by stands selling this and that.

We attempted to visit a book store that housed old manuscripts and texts, but they are in the process of moving locations and were unresponsive to knocks, calls and an email.

Travel tip: guide books are just that. Information can change and businesses can move. Even if you double check online before departing, things can change.

Anticipating a late night on the town, we stopped back at our hotel for tea, a foot dip in the rooftop soaking pool and a salsa nap. We got cleaned up before our hotel/home’s nightly wine reception. The terrace overlooks Cathedral of San Juan Bautista, one of the oldest buildings in San Juan. The current building dates to 1540. Someone was getting married so we watched with our wine as the couple exited the iglesia.

We went to mass where I understood about three words in the mass: Jesus, Maria and hermano. I’ve now seen mass in English, Italian, French and Spanish.

A college friend happened to also be in San Juan, so we met up for dinner to compare itineraries and discuss travel, jobs, literature and how no one ever describes me as “adventurous.” After that we wandered around looking for live music. We were only able to find one club and it didn’t sound like salsa. Instead we settled on a corner bar and got two cocktails. Soon after a man picked up his guitar and started taking requests. He played “Yesterday” for Leann.

You may note that we did not have mofongo today. So ends our streak of 2 days.

Tomorrow we tempt our luck with aquatic transportation to tour the Bacardi facilities. At least this time we know how to kayak if we miss the ferry.

Wish us luck.















2,077 Miles from Chicago



There’s something comforting about a neighborhood Walmart. Some scenic turns through the area surrounding Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport allowed us to see chickens strutting in the narrow streets, with cars parked however the owner felt convenient. The wandering cats are in need of Purina. I opted against attempting to play fetch con los gatos.

The roads immediately leading from the airport to Fajardo were a bit circuitous and GPS wasn’t immensely helpful, beyond triggering my fight of floor it reactions. Our rental car is a Mitsubishi hatchback, light on features and horsepower. Eventually we wound our way to the interstate and made it to the hotel.

In an effort to be efficient, my girlfriend mailed our fluids (contact solution, bug spray, sunscreen) two weeks ago. The thought was we wouldn’t have to wait for checked bags. The USPS, being occupied with delivering Christmas cards, has yet to deliver our package. So, with a dinner recommendation from the front desk we adventured out to get dinner and contact solution.

Our first stop was the restaurant. It was full and the host told two women in front of us they were closed. We hopped back into the hatch and drove toward the Walgreens. We spotted a familiar, glowing sign.


I have often lamented my irritations with Walmart’s clientele back home. Oddly, after a day of flying, driving, and being hungry, the familiar store brought a weird amount of comfort. Everyone may be speaking Spanish, but I know these aisles. Following up the trip to Wendy’s drive-thru may not have been authentic Puerto Rican comida, but I stopped caring about that as soon as I could feel the hangry coming on.

Tonight, we ate Wendy’s on the hotel bed and watched A Charlie Brown Christmas. As the locals say, esta bueno.

I’m reminded today of the mindset that we hear about in all those TED talks. We learn more about ourselves, not through introspection, but by testing our boundaries and extending our comfort zone. At no point did I feel horribly unsafe; the surroundings are just different. And my Español is nowhere near my remedial French.

I also recalled that little bit of mom wisdom when turning out the lights tonight. I may be six feet tall and finish my burritos at Chipotle, but always pack a nightlight. I always forget something when traveling.

Tomorrow is a new day. We shake off the previous day and embark on trekking the only rainforest in the U.S., el yunque.

Hasta mañana.